Forum Topic: Drapping

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#Topic. 15 Jul 2011 14:53

Hello,

I couldn´t find anything about my problem so I decided to post here. I´m trying to do a drapped top, something like the dress on the right in this picture: http://republika.pl/blog_lb_4801513/7369533/tr/drapowanie.png

I don´t know if my pattern is wrong or the physical properties of my material. I´m attaching print screen with my "best" result, pattern and properties, maybe one of you  will be able to help me, I´ll be very grateful :)


Cheers,

Anna




[Last Modified : 2011-07-16 오전 12:02:28 ]


#1. 15 Jul 2011 16:20

I think you need to insert some pleats on the shoulder of the front pattern to get the deep cowl neck.




#2. 15 Jul 2011 20:54

thank you for your replay, baang. I know I can make some pleats, but I wanted to do it without it, I´ve found a picture showing the way I was trying to do it, it´s something like that:




it looks like there is no pleats.



[Last Modified : 2011-07-16 오전 5:57:49 ]


#3. 15 Jul 2011 21:20

thank you for your replay, baang. I know I can make some pleats, but I wanted to do it without it, I´ve found a picture showing the way I was trying to do it, it´s something like that>it looks like there is no pleats.

The pictures you showed in your first post, does  look a lot like what baang showed. it looks like pleats.


I don´t really know how to read a pattern like what you just showed, but it clearly shows the areas a,b,c,d. . I´m not really sure what that´s showing, but all the dresses you showed in the first post, as well as bangs post, have some sort of stitching that controls how the cloth is folding. The cloth is kind of forced to fold like it does.

In your dress, there is nothing like that. You just have a bunch of excess material, but nothing is controlling it. Nothing is forcing it into the position you want. 

You could probably hand manipulate it into position, but as soon as she moved it would just fall however it wanted. 


Don´t you think those 1" dimensions on your pattern #1 are showing some sort of stitching on the shoulder like what baang was suggesting?


Tom


#4. 15 Jul 2011 22:01

thkaufm, maybe that wasn´t the best example. The image I´ve posted is showing how to create that kind of neck from a standard top pattern. The proper pattern is that on the right. I serched the net a little bit more and found other exaples - they don´t look like there are some pleats:

http://www.supre.com.au/files/product/images/48477/cowl-neck-slinky-mini-dress-blk.jpg

http://cache0.bigcartel.com/product_images/34997845/pariscowlnecktopSHOP1.jpg

http://mediaext.drjays.com/media/589/921/files/5899210.jpg

http://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/lyst-static/photos/2011/02/03/tomas-maier-red-cowl-neck-jersey-dress-product-1-280299-837073224_full.jpeg


I think this neck is the effect of too much material, not just by pleats.


[Last Modified : 2011-07-16 오전 7:04:37 ]


#5. 15 Jul 2011 22:53

thkaufm, maybe that wasn´t the best example. The image I´ve posted is showing how to create that kind of neck from a standard top pattern. The proper pattern is that on the right. I serched the net a little bit more and found other exaples - they don´t look like there are some pleats:

I think this neck is the effect of too much material, not just by pleats.

That new batch of pictures is a lot different than the first pictures and pattern you showed.  Much less structured.

I think your original effort is not too far off. I think you just need more material up top, and some fine tuning of your pattern.


Tom


#6. 16 Jul 2011 10:22

It seems to me to be mostly a material problem. I´d try to make the material less stretchy, stiffer. It might need some trial and error ´till you find the right balance of material properties. The pattern itself might need some adjustment too. Are the patterns´ shoulder lines right on top of the shoulders, or are they more down the back? It seems to me that the cowl neck is being pulled back. Also, do the shoulder lines need to be sewn so close to the neck? If they were, say, half the length they´re now, I think the cowl neck effect would be more pronounced.


thkaufm Wrote:

I don´t really know how to read a pattern like what you just showed, but it clearly shows the areas a,b,c,d. . I´m not really sure what that´s showing, but all the dresses you showed in the first post, as well as bangs post, have some sort of stitching that controls how the cloth is folding.


The original pattern that the patternmaker started with is #1. Then he slashes it with a pair of scissors along A, B, C, and D and spreads it (#2, slash-and-spread method). Then he traces around both the white AND the shaded areas to get to the final pattern #3. The shaded areas are the extra fabric that he added near the top of the original pattern.


#7. 17 Jul 2011 01:40

this may help http://www.marvelousdesigner.com/forum/show-off-and-learn/152/

see ashasekayi post on how you can change the direction of the wrinkles

problem with your V-neck if you add fabric it does not like to droop down and lay the wrinkles on top of each other and if you get it to droop down the top edge likes to fold out and flop over and thats not the way i think you want it,

but try ashasekayi way and the top V-neck top edge may not flop out and over.

could be a lot of things maybe you need to sew another fabric to the v-neck and change the fabric preset all so.


you could make the fabric wider and pin it but i dont think you want to reply on pinning to do this





[Last Modified : 2011-07-17 오전 10:52:14 ]


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#8. 20 Jul 2011 15:00

Thank you for all the replies.


I´m keep trying but still the result is ugly ;)


Here´s what I´ve got after little changes in pattern and material properties:



and this is what I´ve got trying to do it ashasekayi´s way (looks even worse here):



Heve you got any ideas what´s wrong here? :)



Cheers,

Anna


#9. 20 Jul 2011 16:26

I think it´s getting there. It probably needs some inner facing at the cowl neck area, or even throughout the entire garment. If you double-up the fabric at the cowl neck area at least, then that area would look stiffer, more voluminous, and not as flimsy. See the clothes in the pics that you´ve linked to. E.g., this. That red fabric is doubled-up.



#10. 20 Jul 2011 16:49



[Last Modified : 2011-07-21 오전 2:21:49 ]


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